The Realm of the Monkey Gods

But first I have answer Aimee's question about who took my pictures in Goa. I usually just ask whoever is around. Indians love taking and being in photos. I had this guy take the photo of me and the cows at the beach...



On Monday night I boarded a sleeper bus (with two-by-two bunks). I was next to a young Russian girl and we made pillow talk before falling asleep. The bus was air conditioned but it was FREEZING and they couldn't do anything about it. So it was cold and my sunburned hurt every time I moved, but I did manage to sleep a bit.

When I woke up I looked out the window to see the sun rising over ancient temples along the roadside. When we finally arrived in Hampi, I got my backpack and walked through the gauntlet of tuk-tuk drivers to a stunning view of the main temple of the Hampi Bazaar...




Normally I would skip the tuk-tuk and just walk around in a small town like this, but I had a big backpack and a sunburned shoulder and so I told one taxi driver it was his lucky day. I even let him take me to his choice of guest house (so he'll get a commission).

After finding a decent room (take your shoes off before entering the guest house!) I ran into an Australian fellow at the guest house who was also on my bus. He invited me to join him for breakfast at the Mango Tree, Hampi's coolest restaurant. And so we walked there and I had a banana coconut pancake and a mango lassi (a yoghurt drink) all with a stunning outdoor view of the river and the boulder-strewn landscape.

I then went on by myself to explore a bit of Hampi Bazaar, the village where I was staying. I passed under the giant temple you saw in the picture above and then took my shoes off and entered the temple courtyard. My first sight was of Lakshmi, the local elephant. She gave me a kiss for money...



There were monkeys everywhere playing and jumping all over the ruins. I tell you, I could have sat there and watched them all day...




In the 14-1500's, Hampi was the capital of a huge empire here in southern India. It was destroyed a century or so later and never recovered. Thus there are extensive ruins scattered all throughout the area. Many of the ruins I had all to myself as I explored...




I seriously felt like Indiana Jones as went inside some of these old, crumbling temples. In the larger ones there is a chamber that is completely dark. I entered with my small flashlight and made sure to watch out for booby traps (just kidding, Mom). When I went in one chamber I was met with an odd sour smell and strange noises from above. I shined the light on the ceiling to see none other than tons of these...




Along the river, the local people bathe and wash clothes...




Some of the ruins at sunset...












Monkey sunset...




On Wednesday morning I went down to the river to watch them bathe Lakshmi...




I then rented a bicycle and rode around to explore the further-out ruins. Walking through these old temples I felt like I was waiting in line at the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland...













The Queen's temple...




Here are the royal elephant stables. A group of Indian school kids wanted me to take their photo and then join them for a group shot. They were even nice to buy me a fresh coconut with a straw!




There were several school groups visiting the ruins that day...




Elephant stables and cows...




For lunch I went back to the Mango Tree. You have to take your shoes off before entering. You are then seated on bamboo mats at tables on tiered terraces with a beautiful view of the countryside. The food is all veg and excellent....




After lunch I explored a bit more...




One of the main temples with a chariot whose stone wheels used to be able to roll....






I met an interesting guy at a Krishna temple...




The monkey temple where Hanuman, the monkey god, was born...




Monkey Temple and rice fields. This is where I'm headed after I finish this blog post...




Sunset on the river...




Last night I ate dinner at the Mango Tree again under the starlight and then on my way back to my guest house I heard a loud ruckus and saw Laksmi the elephant and a small parade of locals passing beneath the large temple. I followed a bit listening to the exotic music...




And found a concert going on in the temple courtyard....




It was a nice way to top off the day.

So Hampi has been pretty amazing. After the Monkey Temple I have to take two buses and a sleeper train further south to the city of Mysore.

See you then!

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