THE INCA TRAIL

Day 1:

It began on Tuesday morning. The bus came and picked me up outside of my apartment around 6:45AM. I had my backpack packed and I was ready to go. I was the last to be picked up of the group and there were nine others already in the van. After getting me they picked up our guide and the eight porters and we headed off to the town of Ollantaytambo. It was a beautiful day.

In Ollantaytambo we made a brief pit stop and most of us bought walking sticks and other things useful for our trek. We then hopped back in the bus and headed for Kilometer 82 - our starting point.

At kilometer 82 we unloaded from the bus and while we exchanged introductions, the porters cooked our lunch. In our group was me from the USA, Neil from England, Enna and Josie from The Netherlands, Cecilia, Livia, Patricia and Giovanni from Brazil and Marc and Fatia from France. Everyone but the French were 20-somethings and everyone spoke English very well except for the French who spoke well enough to get by. So we all got along really well. Since Neil and I were both solo on the trek we shared a tent.

After lunch we went through the control checkpoint and began the Inca Trail. The weather was cloudy and it began to rain as we went on but we were all prepared with our ponchos, rain jackets and back pack covers.

Along the way we saw some Inca ruins.

The camp was about 7 miles away but the hike wasn´t too strenous and we all arrived in good spirits that evening as the weather began to clear.

The porters already had our tents set up and dinner was cooking away as we arrived. Our campsite was beautifully situated with a view of Mount Veronica down the canyon.

At 5pm we had ¨Tea Time¨which consisted of various kinds of tea or hot chocolate, popcorn and crackers. Then at 6:30pm we had a wonderful trout dinner with plenty to eat. We then sat around after dinner where more hot chocolate and tea was available and talked and got to know each other better. (I didn´t drink it, but apparently this tea helps keep one perky. )We also found this in the sugar bowl. Then we went to bed.

Day 2:

The next day we were awaken at 5:30AM to a hot cup of Coca Tea (it´s herbal so it´s ok) we had pancakes and porridge for breakfast then we packed up again and headed off up the trail. It was a beautiful day.

With every group there are native porters who haul the food, tents, tables, chairs and the other things necessary for a comfortable trek. They usually just strap whatever they need to carry together with cloth, throw a tarp over it and hunch over as they make the long trek with the tourists. While the tourists are all decked out in the latest and greatest hiking boots, most porters wore sandals or very flimsy shoes. It was amazing to see them trudge up the hills and then run down them to get the camp ready for their group.

The second day is considered the most difficult because it is 6.6 miles almost completely uphill with an elevation gain of 1,200 meters. It was tiring but the views were spectacular.

As I approached the top of the pass (elevation: almost 4,000 meters) there was a thick mass of fog hanging about and it was kind of cool (in both senses of the word) to hike right into it. The top of the pass quite cold and windy.

After spending a moment at the top to catch my breath and rest I headed down the other side of the mountain where our campsite was waiting several kilometers away. We were all going at our own pace that day so I was by myself at the top and on the descent. It made it rather spooky descending these wet steep steps in the thick fog without a soul around me.

I continued my descent and soon left the fog. Finally around 11:30AM I arrived at our campsite. It was situated on terraces in a narrow gulch that looked down into an enormous valley. It was known as the Cloud Forest because about every thirty minutes or so the clouds would build at the bottom of the gulch and rather quickly creep up to engulf it. It would then disappear for a while leaving us with a clear view of the other side of the canyon.

The rest of the day was spent resting, eating and getting ready for the third day.

Day 3:

We woke up around 7:30 and headed uphill to one of two passes we would cross that day. It was sprinkling as we arrived at some Inca ruins that served as a waypoint and security station for the Inca Trail on the way to Machu Picchu.

After making our descent from the second pass we encounter several other ruins. There was one up high on a cliff and one below in the valley. We briefly stopped at the higher one and then crossed through the valley to the other side of the canyon where we had lunch.

After lunch as we headed up to the third and final pass it began pouring rain. Luckily I was prepared with my rain jacket and backpack covers and my quick-dry pants. When we finally reached the top of the pass the clouds began to clear and we got a spectacular view of the valley ahead.

All along the trail there were curious plants, beautiful flowers, birds in all their varieties, creeping things and all forms of animal life.

There were some ruins just below the pass that sparkled wet in the sunlight as we approached. We stopped there briefly and then headed down the long and ancient stairway of the Incas. Many times the stairs were so steep it reminded me of the stairs of Cirith Ungol from The Lord of the Rings (luckily there was no giant spider.) It was nearly 4,000 feet down down down into the high jungle. It was beautiful but after several hours of constant downhill my knee began to give me some problems. I put my brace on and carried on for an hour before finally reaching our last campsite. In total we hiked over 9 miles that day.

This campsite was more crowded then the rest and it had a restaurant, hot showers (for a price) and other modern features. Our tents were waiting for us and I took a brief rest in my tent which was located on a terrace with a wonderful view. We went to bed early that night.

Day 4:

We woke up the next day at 4AM while it was still dark. We packed our things and ate a quick breakfast then waited in line for the checkpoint to open at 5:30AM. (It gets light in Peru at about 5AM and dark around 6pm.) After crossing the checkpoint we headed out on the final stretch to Machu Picchu. It was a beautiful last 2 miles, but I was worried because as we approached the Sun Gate, the first place to see Machu Picchu, a thick fog was rolling in and I was afraid we wouldn´t see anything.

We climbed the steps to get to the Sun Gate and there it was, Machu Picchu, covered with only a light veil of fog but surrounded on each side by the low clouds. A moment later they swallowed Machu Picchu and it was gone.

After a brief rest we headed towards the ruins. When we finally reached the first farming terraces of Machu Picchu the clouds were clearing again and we got a magical mystery view of the famous site.

After getting several pictures and absorbing the view we headed down to the main entrance checkpoint for the ruins. We went in and listened as our tour guide explained about the history, function and mysteries of Machu Picchu. We then had time to go and explore the ruins for ourselves.

One of the things I didn´t realize about Machu Picchu is how big it is. It´s a massive city when compared to any other ruins I`ve visited. You can go almost anywhere exploring the temples, the homes, the storehouses, the terraces and the narrow streets of the ancient city. Another thing that surprised me was how drammatically stunning the landscape around Machu Picchu is.

After I had explored for a while and got my pictures I found a quiet little place to just sit and absorb the setting. It was great.

Our only deadline was to all meet in the town of Aguas Calientes (about 1 1/2 hours walk down the mountain and along the Urubamba River) around 2pm. It was around 11:30 and bus load after bus load of tourists were arriving en masse. It also began to rain a bit. So after seeing all I wanted to see and taking the pictures I wanted to take I headed down the mountain getting an interesting side glimpse of Machu Picchu and over to Aguas Calientes. I had lunch, browsed the town for a bit (it´s rediculously touristy) and with Neil and the Dutch girls we boarded the train back to Ollantaytambo.

It was a beautiful train ride through the Urubamba River Valley and after arriving at Ollantaytambo we took a bus back to Cusco. We said our goodbyes and I went home, finished watching Sense & Sensibility and slept.

I DID IT

Full update coming soon....

HER NAME WAS LOLA...

Over the weekend I had to cross over the Bolivian border to renew my visa. So with the help of the travel agent at my school I booked a trip to Copacaban, Bolivia. First, I took a bus late Friday night to the Peruvian town of Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. I arrived around 4AM but was able to sleep on the bus until 6AM. At that time I went into the bus station and waited for my bus to Copacaban which left at 8AM. It was a beautiful ride around the lake to the border where I went through the formalities. It was then 8 kilometers to the town of Copacobana neslted beneath the hills of the Andes and Lake Titicaca. (below)

There was something exciting about being in a completely foreign country all by myself with no idea what I would do, where I would stay, what I would eat, etc. All I had is a return bus ticket for 1pm the next day. I even forgot to pack my guide book. So I set off first thing to find myself a hotel. I found one near the beach that looked nice. I asked how much it would be for one person for one night and they said 40 Bolivianos (less than $7) It included a nice room with a bit of a Lake view, a hot shower (with great pressure, it was the best shower I´ve had in weeks), and breakfast the next morning. They also said that check-out time was flexible which was a bonus. So I got my room, put down my stuff and headed off to explore. Copacabana isn´t a very big town but it was a little bit more laid back than Cusco and there were some fun things to see.

The first thing I did however was climb the gigantic hill right off to the side of the city. It was a steep climb but I got some beautiful views of the lakes with the jagged rocks of the hill. When I got to the top there was an enormous shrine to some saint and a bunch of people selling religious paraphenelia and children´s toys. There were people praying, lighting candles and doing other religious things. It was just a normal day in Bolivia and I realized then that it is true what they say about Bolivia being the folklore capital of South America.



After desceding the hill I went for lunch at a restaraunt overlooking the lake. I had fresh trout and it was excellent. I then went and browsed the shops and explored the town a little bit. I went back to my room and had a nap and then went back out to the town for some more strolling and looking for something interesting to buy.



I went for an evening walk along the beach at sunset and made it back into town for a Trout dinner (Also excellent.) I was tired so I went back to my hotel and had a wonderful shower and read for a bit and then went to bed. I slept great.

The next day I slept in till 9Am and went down for breakfast. It was scrambled eggs, bread with jam, fresh banana juice and some chamomile tea. I then went out into town for a bit and wandered up to the enormous cathedral. In front of the cathedral were a chaotic mass of cars all with rose pedals flung about them, wine being poured all over them, a priest blessing them and their owners and even some, hoods up, with a picture of some saint placed upon the engine block with rosaries being held over it. There was also all manner of Catholic perephenilia being sold on the steps. It was crazy. I was trying to think what part of the Bible this all came from but I gave up. I stepped inside the cathedral and found a great crowd there attending mass. I sat in for a few moments for a song and then left.

I found another great place for fresh trout for lunch (avoiding the first item on the menu) and then I went to where my bus would be and waited. It came and I had another pleasant ride over the border, around the lake and back to Puno. While on the bus one of the attendants asked me how long I´d be waiting in Puno. I told him that I would have a five hour layover there since we arrived at 3pm and my bus back to Cusco didn´t leave until 8pm. He suggested that I take a trip out to the famous floating islands of Lake Titicaca. For 25 soles I could get a taxi to the waterfront and back, passage on a small boat and an English speaking guide. Since the bus station isn´t very comfortable and there´s nothing else to do in Puno I decided to go.

So next thing I knew I was heading out to the Uros ¨Floating¨ Islands. The indigenous people have been building them and living on them for hundreds of years. They are indeed floating islands made out of layers of moss and matted-down reeds. Walking around on them felt almost like walking on a waterbed. We got off on one island and the guide explained to us more about the islands and their people. We got to then explore the tiny island and buy handicrafts from the residents.

One of the fun things about these islands were the birds. While the tour group was sitting around on reed ¨logs¨listening to the tour guide a gregacious little heron jumped up on the log right beside me and started making a fuss. He then hopped right to the center of the group and squaked until the guide gave him some fish. Also while exploring the island an over-aggressive seagull kept following me around pecking at my shoes and even my camera when I tried to get a closeup.

Soon it began to rain and we headed back to Puno. I got back to the bus station, had a bite to eat and then headed off on my bus to Cusco. I arrived at 3AM and slept. It had been a fun trip. Trout was eaten. Seagulls were photographed. A visa was renewed.

....tomorrow I begin the Inca Trail...

ALWAYS A PROCESSION

In Cusco it seems every day there is some sort of procession, parade, ceremony, funeral, protest or demonstration. On Sunday evening Alana and I were walking in the main square and happened upon the ceremonial retiring of the Peruvian colors. The military police marched and goose-stepped around the Peruvian flag until they lowered it and folded it up. The municipal police then marched their way to the Cusquenian flag and lowered it with similar pomp. It was fun.

One day while walking home from school I happened upon this scene in front of the courthouse. It was a protest of some kind. You can see the riot police standing guard. Outside of the protest area life went on as usual with street vendors selling and the harmonica beggar playing away.

....that same walk home also yielded this parade on the very street where I live. I don´t know why but there it was with little kids dancing in uniform. It was cute.

IF YOU LIKED THE SALTY SOUTH AMERICA... HAVE A TASTE OF THESE:

I still don´t know if this is sheep meat or alpaca meat that I bought at the market. I got done cutting the meat out and look what happened!

On Sunday morning, Tammie was kind enough to make the South American pancake for me.

PARTY LIKE IT´S 1999!

Like sands through the hourglass so were the days of my TEFL course. After our last day on Tuesday a bunch of the group went out to celebrate at a little Cuban lounge in the heart of Cusco. Good ole´ Bob (the guy sitting in the back with the beard) was kind enough to buy me some papaya juice smoothies while most everyone else had wine. It was really good juice. We played Jenga (as you can see in the picture... and for you Hungarian speakers: Gyenge?) and after my friend Mark from England had few drinks in him he poured a little bit of salt on the glass table and challenged me to a country-making contest with the salt.

I made the USA and he made England.

(notice the Isle of Man and the Isle of Wight... and apparently the Hebrides made out of pepper)

(also notice the Great Salt Lake)

I then went a step further and made the continent of South America out of salt and each country out of pepper. I was tired.

On the way home we stopped by the famous 12-Sided Inca stone and I got a picture.


I began teaching classes the next day. My schedule is the following (all classes are 1 hour):

8AM - Intermediate II (2 students)

3pm - Basic II (about 7 students)
4pm - Pre-Intermediate Children (5 students)
5pm - break
6pm - Pre-Intermediate I (13 students)
7pm - Pre-Intermediate I (about 8 students)
8pm - Intermediate II (3 students)

So my days are pretty busy. After my 8AM class I head over to the LDS church nearby to practice the piano. The CES director is there and has been kind enough to let me in to play. I also have 1-hour Spanish classes but we haven´t set a consistent time to meet yet.

I have the week of the 21st off work because in one week I am leaving for Bolivia for the weekend to renew my visa. I get back on Monday and then Tuesday I leave for my four-day trek on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. It should be fun.

I'VE FINALLY FINISHED!

Well after long last I have finally completed the TEFL course here at Maximo Nivel and am now certified to teach English to speakers of a foreign language. It was a lot of work but it was fun and definitely worth it. I start teaching six classes tomorrow (though I still don't know when, it's kinda crazy... I'll find out tonight.) I'm excited and it will be nice to actually be earning money rather than just spending it.

Me in our Classroom. Click on the picture to enlarge it and you will see a Princess Leia sign below me. That was from my first mini lesson when I taught Who's Who in Star Wars. The different character labels floated around the room for awhile and some taped them to their spot at the table, like Maria with Princess Leia.

UPDATE: apparently this one you can't click on. Sorry.

Because our instructor had to go to Lima this week for something and because Monday and Tuesday were more softball days, we had our End-of-the-Course Party last Friday. It was with all the TEFL students, all the teachers here at Maximo Nivel, the staff of M.N., and a few of the English students that were "Guinea Pig" students for our in-class mini lessons. There was free beer, wine, Coke, Fanta, Sprite and Pizza. I pretty much drank all the Coke. The pizza was really good too. They have a pool table here so we played a little pool, we ate and drank (but were never merry.) It was Jed's birthday (a TEFL student) so we had cake and someone brought a pinata. In the pinata was candy, little plastic toys (a boat, a pig, etc.) and a few cigarettes. It was funny. The party started at 9:30pm but by 11:30 I was so dog-gone tired I just took a cab home. Others went out to some bars and stuff. I got home ready to hit the sack but I couldn't fall asleep because I had drank too much Coke. (So it's a really good thing I don't drink alcohol I guess.) The next morning I was pretty sick. I won't give any disgusting details here, but let's just say it rhymes with "Liariah." But I really didn't have any plans for Saturday so it was ok to just lie on our "couch" and watch movies. I did have an orientation meeting in the afternoon to start working at Maximo Nivel, but I was feeling well enough by then.

Hangin out at the party. (That's a Coke bottle in my hand by the way.)

Jed taking a swing at the pinata.

Sunday was nice and restful and it was so nice not to have to worry about anything due in school the next day. I am understanding more at church now than I used to. Probably somewhere around 17.3%.... other than in Sacrament meeting because the microphone was out.

On Monday afternoon in class we had a Quechua lesson. The idea is for us to have a language lesson in a completely foreign language where we understand nothing, to give us an idea of what it might be like for second-language-learners. It's an interesting language and it reminded me of first learning Hungarian where there are no common Latin or Indo-European roots. We also took part of the TOEFL and IELTS exams which are two English exams for speakers of other languages to get into Universities around the world. Ken offered $20 to anyone who could ace the IELTS and $10 to anyone who could ace the TOEFL. No one in our class did it, though some came close. I missed several questions on both tests. We did this to get an idea of what these tests are like for those whom we might be teaching who will take them. There's actually an additional course that students can take here at Maximo Nivel that preps them for taking these tests by teaching test-taking strategies.

Today was the final day of class and we did a few things but specifically Ken helped us with our resumes. We then got our certificates and got one last picture as a group. Our group was actually pretty close knit and everyone was good friends by the end.

The final photo of the TEFL Group

On Sunday evening a member who owns a large SUV took us up to a hilltop overlooking Cusco where there is a giant white statute of Christ. It was a full moon and so I got a few cool pictures. So I leave you now with these pictures from Sunday night....

The "Cristo Blanco" and the moon.

Cusco en la Noche (click to enlarge)

ps. you can now leave comments apparently, so go at it.

WHAT A WEEK (and a half)!

I have been super duper busy this week. All this work teaching, preparing lessons, sitting in class, writing essays and more has been a workout. My brain got a little cooked by Thursday and I could barely teach a coherent lesson. I'm ok now though. All the hard stuff is behind me and tonight we are having our end-of-the-course party even though the course doesn't end officially until Tuesday. The class decided that this would be the best time for everyone to have a party. And Monday and Tuesday are going to be softer days, working on our resumes and we get a brief Quechua lesson. (Quechua is the main indigenous language of Peru, the language of the Incas.) So I can relax this weekend and just chill.

Last weekend was very fun. My second cousin Jonathan Tanner, who just finished at law school, was in town and hung out with us a bit over the weekend. On Friday night we went to the traveling amusement park. It was Alana, Juan Carlos, Tammie, Ruben, Me and Jonathan. We each went on about three rides. There was one ride that I thought looked pretty fun, you sat in a car and the ride went up and down as you went around a big, what I thought was a gypsy girl, in the middle. I got off the ride, thinking myself pretty tough when I saw the name of the ride, "Barbie" ...and yes, the "gypsy" in the middle was Barbie herself. What was usually great with all of the rides was that they just kept going, you thought they were going to stop at some point but they wouldn't. You got your money's worth, that's for sure. Afterwords we went out for dinner.

You can see the Barbie ride behind me as I wait in line for the bumper cars.

The next day was Saturday and General Conference. The Stake was kind enough to set up a TV in a classroom of the Stake Center for us gringos to watch conference in English. It was nice. That night it was just Jonathan and I watching the Priesthood Session in the English room.

Me, Juan Carlos, Alana and Jonathan Tanner in our apartment

On Sunday we again got to go watch Conference and that was nice. That night we had Jonathan and the two boyfriends over for a lamb stew that I made and played Uno.

Church members leaving the Stake Center after a session of General Conference

This week was stressful and I'm ready for the weekend, but I have still enjoyed it for the most part. On Tuesday they asked me to fill in for teacher for two classes, it added to my load but it was good experience. Maximo Nivel is also planning on hiring me for the next few months as a full-time teacher. I don't know when I'm starting or what my hours are yet but I should find out tomorrow at a teacher orientation meeting with the director.

It's weird, on the one hand I feel like I've been doing this TEFL course for forever, but on the other hand I can't believe a whole month has almost past. I'm excited to get back to a regular schedule and have some time each day to do other things.

I've seen Barney in a couple of places, and I'm not entirely sure what he's promoting.

ps. Matell can have my idea for "Gypsy Barbie"... for a price.